CameraAxe - DIY version

So, I've decided to make a CameraAxe myself.

Complete DIY, including PCB.

So far, this was my hardest project.
Especially due to the fact that it was at my upper limit of my own home technology and personal  skills.
12mills is....the smallest size I can handle with my heat transfer method and with my skills and eye sight.
But I did it.

 

Some pictures below...for those that have a clue :-)

The most interesting part of this project was the "Lessons Learned" part.
Now I know quite a few mistakes that I won't do at my next project.

If I'll have the pacience enough, I might add some details. And only...if requested.
Till then, only the pictures.

What I can say on short is:

- the original Eagle file had to be modified to accommodate at least 12mill's clearance everywhere.
- no strap-wires were used (at least not according due to planned design. I have two due to PCB deterioration)
- next time I'll solder carefully one piece at the time, 100% finished, so that I won't have to do any subsequent checks.

 

Next step: now I have to start building the sensors :-)

 

:-)

I've finished building the sensors, even the sensor valve (I'll write a new post for it) and...here it is the first colliding drop picture.Yupeeee....

 

 

(Pressurized) Camera Senzor

Well....it all started by NOT having the right solenoid valve :-)

Technical requirements specified that  I need a "gravity-flow" solenoid but I could not find it.
So, I used a normal (garden?) solenoid.
Guess what: no dripping :-)
Even with water...

solenoid-1

So, the only reasonable solution was to pressurise the tank.
Total different specifications of my gear.
I was using plumbing PVC pipes and their internal gaskets were more than enough to hold the weight of the water column.
But, when adding pressure....the whole thing started to fall apart.
Therefore, I had to glue the pipes here and there and the only "interesting" solution was on the cap of the valve where my intention was to be able to remove the valve if intended so I decided not to glue it.

As for the pressure, that was simple: I had an old medical blood pressure measuring device, actually consisting in a hand pump (with reverse valve inside) and also a low pressure gauge.

Now, the things go like this: I build enough pressure inside the tank so that the valve works as expected within the timings of CameraAxe and I start shooting.
The only thing I have to take care is to keep the pressure at the same level so that the drops are as consistend as possible (from time point of view).

And, after a couple of hours of testing...I'm pretty satisfied.
I don't think I'll even look for a gravity-flow valve.
The pressurized tank is...good enough.

[and this is only version1.
tank version2 has a 2liters volume inside.... :-)   ]

 

 

 

Comments

  • Alex 3 years ago

    Hello amir
    The valve sensor is basically....a electro valve.
    A coil that opens the valve when powered.
    Then, when the power is removed, the valve is closed and no more water flow.
    You can test it, to see if it produces any water drops by connecting it to a 12v battery for a very short period.

    Warning: most of the electro-valves are optimised for flow not for...drops.
    This is the reason why I used a pressurised water chaimber.

    Good luck & have fun!

  • amir 3 years ago

    hello
    I had to make camera axe 5
    And valve sensor
    How can I test the valve sensor without camera axe?
    thanks

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